White fabric to keep silt from filling up rocks, and then the pipe.

Sounds easy.  It's never easy.  Lots of digging here and filling back in there.  Splicing pieces, adding turns, corners and making sure it all heads downhill. 

Next was to cover it with gravel, then cover it with a fabric to prevent soil from filling up the pipe.

Most of the folks I worked with agreed that adding roof drainage away from the foundation was much better than the roof drainage to splash blocks that I had on the building plans.  Splash blocks would work fine.  However, the water would hit the splash block then just end up in the yards directly in front of the house all around the house.  I agreed that it would be an improvement to direct the water out just as the foundation footing drain.  The added cost was about $100.00 more and If I did all the labor it would be pretty cheap.  So, I "hung" another pipe from the sill wall just below where grade would be and directed it all around the perimeter wall headed downhill just as the footing drain.  Only this pipe was solid, no perforation, it was white #35 pvc pipe and I also had to glue together joints for all the corners as well as adding 'T' fittings to run up the wall just above grade so the roof vent could be directed into it.  I was instructed to direct the exit end of this roof drainage pipe into the same drain line exit run used for the footing drain.

Shows drainage heading out into the yard and sewer drainage line to the septic.

My best buddy, my lil' Toyota pickup. Helper springs, 6 ply tires and a rack.  This lil' gal hauls more than your average little truck by gawd.

On Inspection day I was at work, so the inspector didn't have anyone to talk with when he came, and I failed the inspection.  His notes were a little strange:

1. Do not connect footing & downspout drains
2. Downspouts to be to splash blocks on engineered design for infiltration trench
3. Remove foundation vent covers
4. The foundation needs to be vented 1' vent to 150sq'

Well, my builder consultant always connects the roof drain to the footing drain, so I had to call about that. 
#2 was a statement, and I did call for splash blocks on the plans, not piped drainage.
Well, as you can see by the picture, I had to tear out the roof drainage I worked so hard on.  Lost $150. and many hours of installation time.  Damn. 
#3 was odd, the vents were sold with little doors that open or close and the inspector wants me to "remove" the doors so the crawlspace is permanently vented. 
#4 just states the number of vents, which I do have so I'm not sure why he bothered noting that.  I found out he measures the actual vent netting size to get the correct number of sq. inchs per crawl space area.  I was short less than 1 foot of vent space. 
The inspector said he didn't know what I was going to do about the venting, since, the cement has been poured.  I'm perplexed as to what the hell I can do.  All my consultants say he should have inspected for venting at the foundation inspection when I could have fixed it, not after the concrete is poured.  Not sure what to do with this yet.  Stay tuned.

Another thing I had to do was lay the septic drain pipe from the septic to the house.  Well, the existing pipe from the trailer to the tank was very poorly done and used the wrong type of pipe.  I laid 55' of expensive #40 ABS Black DWV pipe from the tank to the new foundation.  I also had to plumb the old trailer pipe into this new pipe until the house was built.  I had to do hours and hours of work digging - filling - adjusting the critical pipe height in this trench.